Wednesday How to Tip - Braking for speed!
by Mike Fraser
21 April 2004
Welcome back to another Wednesday motocross tips session.
The snow is gone and a lot of riders probably got out this weekend for the first time since last year, me included. Can you say "Arm Pump". LOL
Anyway, when I am at the track I love to watch the riding techniques of everyone there. Over the last two weekends I had the chance to watch some of the top local pro and intermediate riders practice. Ryan Lockhart, Kyle Ledwich(sp), Boo Green, Mitch Cooke, Daryl Jollimore, Paul Smith, and Davey Fraser were just some of the guys I got to watch. At the same time I was watching some of the beginner and junior riders practicing along side of them.
Today let's discuss a difference you will notice between watching pros and beginners. Yes they all keep their EYES UP, but there is something else that makes the pros get around the track much faster....
Brakes.
DISCLAIMER: The following is from an article I read in Motocross Action. I have added a few of my own lines and additional paragraphs but most of the following content is derived from Motocross Action. Normally I would write my own article, but this was written well and covered the topic in a concise manner.
Keep this in mind.........YOU CAN ONLY GO AS FAST AS YOU CAN STOP.
Motocross tracks have lots of low-speed corners, where the ability to slow the bike down quickly translates into getting it back up to speed when exiting the turn. Anyone can go fast on straightaways. Straights are one place where there is no difference between Mitch Cooke, Bubba Stewart, Ryan Lockhart, and you. However, there is a big difference at the end of the straight. All of these guys can go faster longer and still make the turn—you have to coast. Coasting will kill your lap times, but, if you learn the pros secrets of braking, you can go in deeper and come out faster.
SECRETS OF BRAKING
Let's look at the top ten keys to effective braking.
Key One: Don’t brake too soon. Going in deep is the only way that a racer should attack a corner. Coasting into corners is time wasted (especially when magnified by ten or more corners per lap).
Key Two: Use brake markers. Road race courses have countdown signs leading into a corner. A pavement racer can choose to apply the brakes at signs 3, 2 or 1. Motocrossers don’t have braking markers, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t pick out a hay bale, a tree, a flagman, water sprinkler or rock and use it as a marker. Once you pick your braking points, use the same spot lap after lap.
Key Three: If you are going to use your brakes, USE THEM HARD. Don’t fool around. When you decide to use them—use them. Next time you are watching the advanced riders, notice how hard they are coming on to their brakes. Please note, that when applying your brakes hard, especially the front brakes, be sure to stand up, move your body and weight to the rear of the bike, and squeeze the bike hard with your legs. This aids in stability under heavy braking, which translates into safer braking.
Key Four: Brake while the bike is upright. Do the majority of your braking on the approach to the corner (when the bike is still going in a straight line). An upright bike puts the most rubber on the ground and can withstand brake lock-up, skidding and rough ground better than a leaned-over one.
Key Five: Depend on your front brake. The front brake does 70 percent of the braking. The rear brake is largely for directional control and brake slides. If you want to stop in a hurry, you will have to use the front brake.
Key Six: Sand, mud and hills require less braking. Going up a steep hill doesn’t require as much braking to slow or stop the bike because gravity is working against the bike’s momentum. By the same token, sand (think Kingston) and mud create additional drag that assist in braking. Off-camber hills and corners require a light braking. Too much rear brake on an off-camber typically results in the bike sliding out from under you.
Keep your eyes up, read the terrain and adjust your braking accordingly.
Key Seven: Adjust your levers to suit your body position and braking style. The front brake should be set up so that there is only a small amount of free-play in the lever. You want the front brake to be activated by the bending action of the first knuckle of your fingers and locked up by the time the second knuckle bends. A good rule of thumb is to set the brake (and clutch) levers about 15 - 20 degrees below the level of the grips. In other words, if you are looking at the bike from the side your levers should be about 1 - 1.5 inches below the center point of your grips.
Key Eight: Be prepared to pull the clutch in. If you are trying to outbrake the guy in front of you, you may want to pull the clutch in (especially on a 125 or four-stroke). Pulling the clutch in allows you to use the front and rear brakes to the max without killing the engine.
Key Nine: Master the brake slide. When you lock up the rear brake, the rear of the bike can be forced to slide around the corner—completing two tasks at the same time. While the rear wheel is sliding, the front brake can be used to pin the front wheel to the apex. In other words, you lock the rear wheel up and slide the bike around the inside apex of the turn and then hit the throttle once you’re lined up with the next straight. This is especially effective in hairpins, uphill corners and on hard-packed dirt.
Key Ten: This may be the most important of all the braking pointers. MAKE SURE YOUR BRAKES WORK! I know this sounds like a given rule, but you would be amazed how many guys are out there riding with brakes that a less than 100%. Here are some simple maintainance rules for keeping your brakes in good working order.
Clean your pads. Use brake cleaner and scotchbrite pads and clean the surface of your pads. Dirty pads are the number one culprit in under performing brakes.
Clean your rotors. Use brake cleaner and a clean cloth/rag and pinch the rotor and clean them off.
Replace your brake fluid. This should be done at a minimum, once a year. I replace mine ever couple months. Through use the fluid will break down. Good clean fluid keeps everything working better.
Replace your pads once they are out of spec in accordance to the owners manual.
Check and clean your cables. This should be done at least once a year.
Bonus Key: How to practice braking. This is a practice drill that is not as fun as jumping, but it is essential if you want to be faster. Races are won in the corners. Corners are won through braking skills. Get on a flat surface where you can get up to speed (2nd or 3rd gear), keep your eyes up, and go as fast as you can. Pick a point and slam on your front brake (see KEY THREE for body positioning on heavy front braking). See how far you go until you stop. Do the same thing with the rear brake, then using both brakes. Do this at least 20 times. This will give you a very accurate indication how much distance you need to safely come of a stop. Once you know this distance, find a corner and charge in and do this braking drill again (20 times). This will help you judge distance and timing on braking into corners. Try to not to coast, stay on the gas until it is time to stop.
For more practice and pointers on braking, be sure to attend one of the riding schools this season in your local area. Having a pro rider observe and coach you will only make your skills that much better.
Have fun practicing braking.
Remember : YOU CAN ONLY GO AS FAST AS YOU CAN STOP.
Mike
